Leslin K Seemon
| 88 views | 4 min read
Maheshwari weaving has a storied history that dates back to the 18th century in Maheshwar, a town on the banks of the Narmada River in Madhya Pradesh. This craft flourished under the patronage of Queen Ahilyabai Holkar, who invited master weavers from Surat and Malwa to create unique sarees for the royal family.
The first Maheshwari saree, designed by the queen herself, featured intricate designs inspired by the local architecture and nature, such as the Narmada River, temple borders, and floral motifs. These sarees quickly gained popularity, becoming a symbol of elegance and tradition in the region.
The Maheshwari weaving industry is a crucial economic activity in Maheshwar, Madhya Pradesh supporting many families. These sarees are known for their fine handloom cotton and silk yarns, and the craft contributes significantly to the local economy.
Prices for Maheshwari sarees vary based on the complexity of the design and the materials used. A typical saree can range from INR 2,000 to INR 10,000, with intricate designs fetching higher prices. There is also a growing export market, with significant demand in countries like the USA, UK, and Germany.
Despite the economic opportunities, weavers face challenges such as fluctuating demand and competition from machine-made textiles. Initiatives by organisations like the Khargewale - a Rang De Impact partner - have helped revive the craft by providing training support and market access to weavers, enhancing the reputation and demand for Maheshwari sarees globally.
The lives of Maheshwari weavers are deeply intertwined with their craft. For many, weaving is not just a livelihood but a legacy passed down through generations. Shahnawaz, a seasoned weaver with 10-12 years of experience, began his weaving journey in the 6th grade. He honed his skills under the guidance of a master weaver for 7-8 years before acquiring his first loom in 2018. Fast forward to 2024, Shahnawaz now manages three loans and employs two workers to assist him in his craft.
Crafting a Maheshwari saree is a meticulous process, taking anywhere from 7 to 10 days depending on the complexity of the design. Let’s break down the economics of producing one of these beautiful sarees:
Dyeing: The cost for dyeing the silk is ₹750 per kilo.
Winding the Yarn: This process costs ₹150 per kilo.
Drafting: The intricate work of drafting comes to ₹1200 per kilo.
Silk Yarn: Purchasing the silk yarn itself is a significant expense at ₹8000 per kilo.
Zari Work: Adding the ornate zari work costs ₹2000 per kilo.
Weaving wages are the most significant expense, even more than the raw materials. It takes about 7 days, with 8-9 hours of work each day, to make one saree. For weaving 16 sarees, a weaver earns between ₹10,000 to ₹12,000. While a weaver can take as much time as needed, the payment is fixed for the completion of the saree. Approximately, it costs around ₹2000-3000 for making a Maheshwari saree.
Maheshwari weaving is distinguished by its intricate techniques and meticulous craftsmanship. The process begins with selecting fine cotton and silk threads, which are dyed using both natural and synthetic dyes. The threads are then spun and arranged on the loom with precision.
A unique feature of Maheshwari sarees is the reversible border, known as bugdi, allowing the saree to be worn on both sides. Weavers use a variety of motifs, such as floral patterns, stripes, and checks, each holding symbolic significance. The weaving technique requires great coordination and expertise, combining hand and foot movements.
Despite their cultural value, Maheshwari weavers face several challenges. The rise of power looms and synthetic fabrics has led to increased competition, affecting the demand for handcrafted sarees. Economic instability and limited market access further exacerbate the weavers' struggles.
Khargewale has played a crucial role in training and mentoring artisans into becoming independent entrepreneurs. Rang De Social Investors have played a crucial role in boosting Maheshwari weaving, through affordable loans. Social Investments have unlocked capital for raw materials, purchasing looms and market linkages enhancing artisan’s overall income.
To enable artisans and invest in artforms visit rangde.in - create livelihoods and get repaid with interest!
